The hills we had to climb to get to Budapest.
Welcome to Budapest.
Cycling into Budapest in a 20 person convoy.
More convoy.
Friday, June 27, 2008
Photos 2
The hills we had to climb to get to Budapest. Welcome to Budapest.
Photos 1
A long, flat, straight path beside the Danube Canal in Slovakia.
Hungarian countryside, jut before the start of a climb.
Vineyards at the top of the climb on the way to Esztergom.
View from my tent window in Esztergom. Carl and Rita's tent (in front) and the largest temple in Hungary (in back).
Graeme, Manon and Nicole in Esztergom.
Esztergom to Budapest
June 26
57km (659m vertical)
Woke up with a start last night to the sounds of wild winds. The tent was shaking and the trees were whipping back and forth. Soon there were loud cracks of thunder and bright lightening. People got out of their tents to look for hurricanes. Then came torrential rain that lasted an hour or so, and then it all stopped.
Short ride today. Started with a 6km climb up about 500m. Thankfully it was over a forested hill, so most of it was in shade. My knee felt find and I went up briskly, passed all of the other riders on the hill except Bill. Waited at the top until a group of 10 or so had reached the top, and then sped down the other side. Max speed = 65.6km/h, and I was above 50km/h for almost the next 20km to lunch.
Waited at lunch for all the riders to arrive, before heading into Budapest in two large packs. The directions were too complicated to be explained. It was quite the experience to ride into a busy city in a group of 20 cyclists at 25km/h. We went along bike paths, busy roads, and even through a train station (inside the building...at full speed).
My passport was not at the hotel when I arrived. The tour company was supposed to courier it here from Toronto. I was going to apply for a Chinese visa while I was here, but it turns out that the embassy is closed tomorrow a holiday. After much asking, e-mailing and worrying, I found out that my passport was being carried over with a new tour leader that will join the group tomorrow. Phew.
Left our laundry at the laundromat, to be picked up tomorrow morning. Strange system. Had a beer at a cafe and walked around a mountaineering shop. Its Nicole's birthday tonight, so hopefully we had a nice dinner in a nice rester aunt.
57km (659m vertical)
Woke up with a start last night to the sounds of wild winds. The tent was shaking and the trees were whipping back and forth. Soon there were loud cracks of thunder and bright lightening. People got out of their tents to look for hurricanes. Then came torrential rain that lasted an hour or so, and then it all stopped.
Short ride today. Started with a 6km climb up about 500m. Thankfully it was over a forested hill, so most of it was in shade. My knee felt find and I went up briskly, passed all of the other riders on the hill except Bill. Waited at the top until a group of 10 or so had reached the top, and then sped down the other side. Max speed = 65.6km/h, and I was above 50km/h for almost the next 20km to lunch.
Waited at lunch for all the riders to arrive, before heading into Budapest in two large packs. The directions were too complicated to be explained. It was quite the experience to ride into a busy city in a group of 20 cyclists at 25km/h. We went along bike paths, busy roads, and even through a train station (inside the building...at full speed).
My passport was not at the hotel when I arrived. The tour company was supposed to courier it here from Toronto. I was going to apply for a Chinese visa while I was here, but it turns out that the embassy is closed tomorrow a holiday. After much asking, e-mailing and worrying, I found out that my passport was being carried over with a new tour leader that will join the group tomorrow. Phew.
Left our laundry at the laundromat, to be picked up tomorrow morning. Strange system. Had a beer at a cafe and walked around a mountaineering shop. Its Nicole's birthday tonight, so hopefully we had a nice dinner in a nice rester aunt.
Gyor to Esztergom
June 25th
106km (727m vertical)
Last night's campsite was pretty rough. There was a small building of permanent apartments beside the field where we camped, and shady looking locals were watching us all night. The washrooms were inside their building, and were completely disgusting. Reminded me of a scene from “Saw”.
Another hot day, with temperatures up to 95F. We were off the cyclepath and back on regular roads. One was under construction, so we plowed through loose gravel for a few km.
After lunch was our first substantial climb in the past week or so. My knee, which has enjoyed the flat roads, felt fine as I pushed up the hill. It wasn't too bad, but it was very hot. The downhill on the other side was a bit too bumpy and overgrown to be really fun, but I still got up to 52km/h.
Rode the “tandem express” into camp today, as I drafted Carl and Rita. Everyone enjoyed the camp pool, and Al was a big hit with the local kids, who enjoyed throwing beach balls off of his head. We walked into town for a bit, and I had two icecreams and a local cake...before our dinner in camp.
106km (727m vertical)
Last night's campsite was pretty rough. There was a small building of permanent apartments beside the field where we camped, and shady looking locals were watching us all night. The washrooms were inside their building, and were completely disgusting. Reminded me of a scene from “Saw”.
Another hot day, with temperatures up to 95F. We were off the cyclepath and back on regular roads. One was under construction, so we plowed through loose gravel for a few km.
After lunch was our first substantial climb in the past week or so. My knee, which has enjoyed the flat roads, felt fine as I pushed up the hill. It wasn't too bad, but it was very hot. The downhill on the other side was a bit too bumpy and overgrown to be really fun, but I still got up to 52km/h.
Rode the “tandem express” into camp today, as I drafted Carl and Rita. Everyone enjoyed the camp pool, and Al was a big hit with the local kids, who enjoyed throwing beach balls off of his head. We walked into town for a bit, and I had two icecreams and a local cake...before our dinner in camp.
Bratislava (Slovakia) to Gyor (Hungary)
June 24th
95km (176m vertical)
Last night's dinner was great. Henry, the founder of the tour company, joined us for the meal. He is Slovak, and arranged for a traditional Slovak meal: hearty stew, breaded chicken, potato, rice, salad, and beer. Good stuff. We stopped for an ice creme sundae on the way home. Yum.
Today was hot. The thermometer on my cycling computer showed 98F around 1pm. It wasn't so bad in the shade, and it wasn't even that bad while cycling (since moving fast gives you a breeze) but it was terrible to stand in the direct sun...even just to check directions. I much prefer cold to heat.
A lot of people got lost at some point today, us included. We ended up cycling in circles for an extra 5km on some gravel paths before figuring out where we were supposed to go.
Scenery was pretty bland. Flat path along a canal for most of the day. There was a good tailwind though, so we cruised along briskly at 35km/h for long stretches.
Theresa spoke with Neil yesterday, which is a good sign. She asked, “How are you?” and he replied “I'm all beat up.” Apparently the doctors are pleased with his progress.
Its pouring rain as I type this in my tent.
95km (176m vertical)
Last night's dinner was great. Henry, the founder of the tour company, joined us for the meal. He is Slovak, and arranged for a traditional Slovak meal: hearty stew, breaded chicken, potato, rice, salad, and beer. Good stuff. We stopped for an ice creme sundae on the way home. Yum.
Today was hot. The thermometer on my cycling computer showed 98F around 1pm. It wasn't so bad in the shade, and it wasn't even that bad while cycling (since moving fast gives you a breeze) but it was terrible to stand in the direct sun...even just to check directions. I much prefer cold to heat.
A lot of people got lost at some point today, us included. We ended up cycling in circles for an extra 5km on some gravel paths before figuring out where we were supposed to go.
Scenery was pretty bland. Flat path along a canal for most of the day. There was a good tailwind though, so we cruised along briskly at 35km/h for long stretches.
Theresa spoke with Neil yesterday, which is a good sign. She asked, “How are you?” and he replied “I'm all beat up.” Apparently the doctors are pleased with his progress.
Its pouring rain as I type this in my tent.
Monday, June 23, 2008
Photos
The fields of Austria approaching Slovakia.
Helmet hair at lunch.
Cycle path on the bridge into Bratislava.
Bratislava pedestrian mall.
Our boat hotel.
Vienna (Austria) to Bratislava (Slovakia)
June 23rd
69km (311m vertical)
Today had plenty of opportunity for disaster. Luckily, all went well. The bike shop had a nice new wheel for Nicole at a bargain price of only 50 Euros. There were several others buying things at the bike shop, so we had company on the road. Joss had his wallet stolen yesterday, so he was at the police station in the morning trying (unsuccessfully) to report it.
The ride itself was uneventful. As we left Vienna, it started to rain lightly and the cycle path we were on was closed for repairs. I was worried that it was a sign of things to come, but we found our way around the construction and the rain died off quickly. After that, it was a long, flat, rough cycle path along the Danube for the rest of the morning.
Crossed the border into Slovakia at 60km without talking to any immigration officials at all. There was a border station, but there was no one in it. The lunch truck was parked just past the border, so we ate and then road 5km to our hotel.
Tonight we are staying in a boat hotel on the Danube. After arriving around 1pm, we spent a few hours walking around the old town in Bratislava. More buzzing cobblestone pedestrian walkways with plenty of cafes and gelato bars. It is about 90F in the sun, so everyone came back to the boat for some relaxation. Tonight we are going for a group dinner in town.
69km (311m vertical)
Today had plenty of opportunity for disaster. Luckily, all went well. The bike shop had a nice new wheel for Nicole at a bargain price of only 50 Euros. There were several others buying things at the bike shop, so we had company on the road. Joss had his wallet stolen yesterday, so he was at the police station in the morning trying (unsuccessfully) to report it.
The ride itself was uneventful. As we left Vienna, it started to rain lightly and the cycle path we were on was closed for repairs. I was worried that it was a sign of things to come, but we found our way around the construction and the rain died off quickly. After that, it was a long, flat, rough cycle path along the Danube for the rest of the morning.
Crossed the border into Slovakia at 60km without talking to any immigration officials at all. There was a border station, but there was no one in it. The lunch truck was parked just past the border, so we ate and then road 5km to our hotel.
Tonight we are staying in a boat hotel on the Danube. After arriving around 1pm, we spent a few hours walking around the old town in Bratislava. More buzzing cobblestone pedestrian walkways with plenty of cafes and gelato bars. It is about 90F in the sun, so everyone came back to the boat for some relaxation. Tonight we are going for a group dinner in town.
Cliffhanger
Still in Vienna. Nic now has no front wheel, and we are going to the bike shop at 8:30am to try and get her a new one. Not sure what Plan B is...but I'm sure that they will sell her something.
We cross into Slovakia today, and my passport is still enroute from Toronto to Budapest. This morning they told everyone to have their passports with them for the border crossing, since they were being checked due to the Eurocup. I reminded the tour organizer that I had no passport, to which he replied "Oh...shit." Should be an interesting day...
We cross into Slovakia today, and my passport is still enroute from Toronto to Budapest. This morning they told everyone to have their passports with them for the border crossing, since they were being checked due to the Eurocup. I reminded the tour organizer that I had no passport, to which he replied "Oh...shit." Should be an interesting day...
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Photos 3
Nazi gas chamber, desguised as a shower room. Very distrubing.
Tour riders relaxing at a cafe on the way to Emmersdorf.
Rows of wine grapes in the hills outside of Emmersdorf.
One of the smalls town scattered between vineyards.
Crowded Vienna street.Photos 2
Entering Austria from Germany.
Oliver (tour mechanic and sweep rider) and me on our way to Linz.
A small boat that carries cyclists across the Danube.
Nazi concentration camp in Mathausen. As the official video described, this was the way in...
...and, for most, this was the way out.
Photos 1
Carl and Rita on their tandum, cycling out of Regensburg on cobblestone streets.
Some of the bike paths are little more than two rocky tire tracks.
Beautiful campsite beside the river outside of Passau.
View of Passau from the river. The green-topped towers are the cathedral.
Inside the Passau cathedral is the worlds largest organ. This is part of it.
Rest Day in Vienna
June 22nd
0km
After 5 days of riding, its good to get a rest day. Vienna is baking hot though, and mostly closed, so there's not a lot to do.
Slept it late (8am!) and then took a streetcar to the laundromat. Did laundry, checked the internet, and then took the tube to the old city and went for lunch. There were Eurocup fans everywhere – mostly Spanish. They had painted faces and club jearsies on, and were cheering and chanting in red and yellow mobs that drifted up and down the pedestrian malls.
We walked around a bit, went into an old church, and had a big ice cream sundae before heading back to the hotel. We even found a pharmacy and a bookstore that were open, so I picked up a few things.
Will update this blog at the internet cafe this afternoon, and then relax before getting back in the saddle again tomorrow.
0km
After 5 days of riding, its good to get a rest day. Vienna is baking hot though, and mostly closed, so there's not a lot to do.
Slept it late (8am!) and then took a streetcar to the laundromat. Did laundry, checked the internet, and then took the tube to the old city and went for lunch. There were Eurocup fans everywhere – mostly Spanish. They had painted faces and club jearsies on, and were cheering and chanting in red and yellow mobs that drifted up and down the pedestrian malls.
We walked around a bit, went into an old church, and had a big ice cream sundae before heading back to the hotel. We even found a pharmacy and a bookstore that were open, so I picked up a few things.
Will update this blog at the internet cafe this afternoon, and then relax before getting back in the saddle again tomorrow.
Emmersdorf to Vienna
June 21st
122km (455m vertical)
Lost another rider to injury today. Don broke his collar bone after catching his pedal on a little metal collar in the middle of the bike path (the kind that can hold a post to stop cars from entering the bike path). He was in good spirits in the hotel lobby at the end of the day but he'll be flying home to Canada as soon as he can get a flight. This makes 3 riders that have left the trip due to injury. That sounds like more than enough (knock on wood). No new news on Neil. The last we heard he was still not conscious and the doctors were expecting him to remain in the German hospital for at least 3 weeks before he was fit to fly home. Serious stuff for an old adventurer. You can read some of Niel's blog on the Tour D'Afrique website, that is linked on the top right of this page.
Everyone got up an hour early today, so that we could make it into Vienna before all the shops close. (Shops in Europe are never open on Sundays it seems, so there won't be much shopping on our rest day tomorrow.) Unfortunately, Nicole had more wheel troubles in the morning, and ended up riding on Shanny's wheel again. Hers is garbage and will need to be replaced in Vienna. In the end, we were last out of camp at about 7:50am.
It was really hot today. Up to 90 F at one point. The first third of the ride was beautiful, riding through vineyards from one small town to another. We'd climb leisurely into the hills and then race down through narrow cobblestone streets back to the river.
The afternoon was less fun, mostly because it was so hot. We rode alone the river, on a flat, smooth bicycle path...just watching the kms tick by. We ended up sprinting for 1km then normal pace for 2km just to give us a way to pass the time. Occasionally there were nude locals sunbathing next to the path, and swimming or fishing in the river. Most were fat old men, which no one really needs to see naked on a hot day.
Arrived in the hotel around 2:45pm, but all the local bike shops were closed. We'll have to try again on Monday.
Had dinner with a group of 20 riders at a local Italian place. Watched the Eurocup quarter final match on TV between The Netherlands and Russia. The game was being played in Vienna, and there was a lot of interest in the game. Russia won. Sure that Tanya is happy about that. Poor Manon.
122km (455m vertical)
Lost another rider to injury today. Don broke his collar bone after catching his pedal on a little metal collar in the middle of the bike path (the kind that can hold a post to stop cars from entering the bike path). He was in good spirits in the hotel lobby at the end of the day but he'll be flying home to Canada as soon as he can get a flight. This makes 3 riders that have left the trip due to injury. That sounds like more than enough (knock on wood). No new news on Neil. The last we heard he was still not conscious and the doctors were expecting him to remain in the German hospital for at least 3 weeks before he was fit to fly home. Serious stuff for an old adventurer. You can read some of Niel's blog on the Tour D'Afrique website, that is linked on the top right of this page.
Everyone got up an hour early today, so that we could make it into Vienna before all the shops close. (Shops in Europe are never open on Sundays it seems, so there won't be much shopping on our rest day tomorrow.) Unfortunately, Nicole had more wheel troubles in the morning, and ended up riding on Shanny's wheel again. Hers is garbage and will need to be replaced in Vienna. In the end, we were last out of camp at about 7:50am.
It was really hot today. Up to 90 F at one point. The first third of the ride was beautiful, riding through vineyards from one small town to another. We'd climb leisurely into the hills and then race down through narrow cobblestone streets back to the river.
The afternoon was less fun, mostly because it was so hot. We rode alone the river, on a flat, smooth bicycle path...just watching the kms tick by. We ended up sprinting for 1km then normal pace for 2km just to give us a way to pass the time. Occasionally there were nude locals sunbathing next to the path, and swimming or fishing in the river. Most were fat old men, which no one really needs to see naked on a hot day.
Arrived in the hotel around 2:45pm, but all the local bike shops were closed. We'll have to try again on Monday.
Had dinner with a group of 20 riders at a local Italian place. Watched the Eurocup quarter final match on TV between The Netherlands and Russia. The game was being played in Vienna, and there was a lot of interest in the game. Russia won. Sure that Tanya is happy about that. Poor Manon.
Linz to Emmersdorf
June 20th
111km (481m vertical)
Not much of an update on Neil. Apparently he is still under anesthesia and thus on life support. Poor old guy.
Nic's wheel was making a lot of noise again today, despite Olivier's attempts to replace the bearings. The wheel will definitely need to be replaced. At least there are still lots of bike shops. Al discovered a problem with his crank set in camp, and is now riding with only two chainringschain rings
The tour company was not able to get me a visa in Toronto. The Chinese embassy said that I needed to drop off the passport myself, even though there website says that a tour company can do it for me. I should get my passport back in Budapest, so perhaps I can try again there. If not, then I'll try in Istanbul. What a pain in the butt.
It was really sunny and hot again today. In the 80s most of the day and bright sun. I had to put darker lenses in my cycling glasses to stop squinting.
20km into the ride, we stopped to visit an old Nazi death camp in Mathausen. It was one of the larger camps aside from Auschwitz, and one of the last to be liberated. We walked though the shower room gas chambers and crematorium. Definitely shocking to read the stories of the atrocities that took place there so recently.
By the time we got under way again it was almost noon, so I felt rushed the rest of the day. We spent longer than most at the camp, so we were last to lunch and last into our campsite tonight. Olivier (the mechanic) was sweeping the route, so he cycled with us today at the back. Thankfully there was a tailwind, so we made good time – cruising along at 30km/h for long stretches.
Scenery was again lovely. Still following the Danube river. There were more farmers fields on the hills today, and more cute little buildings as well.
111km (481m vertical)
Not much of an update on Neil. Apparently he is still under anesthesia and thus on life support. Poor old guy.
Nic's wheel was making a lot of noise again today, despite Olivier's attempts to replace the bearings. The wheel will definitely need to be replaced. At least there are still lots of bike shops. Al discovered a problem with his crank set in camp, and is now riding with only two chainringschain rings
The tour company was not able to get me a visa in Toronto. The Chinese embassy said that I needed to drop off the passport myself, even though there website says that a tour company can do it for me. I should get my passport back in Budapest, so perhaps I can try again there. If not, then I'll try in Istanbul. What a pain in the butt.
It was really sunny and hot again today. In the 80s most of the day and bright sun. I had to put darker lenses in my cycling glasses to stop squinting.
20km into the ride, we stopped to visit an old Nazi death camp in Mathausen. It was one of the larger camps aside from Auschwitz, and one of the last to be liberated. We walked though the shower room gas chambers and crematorium. Definitely shocking to read the stories of the atrocities that took place there so recently.
By the time we got under way again it was almost noon, so I felt rushed the rest of the day. We spent longer than most at the camp, so we were last to lunch and last into our campsite tonight. Olivier (the mechanic) was sweeping the route, so he cycled with us today at the back. Thankfully there was a tailwind, so we made good time – cruising along at 30km/h for long stretches.
Scenery was again lovely. Still following the Danube river. There were more farmers fields on the hills today, and more cute little buildings as well.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Passau (Germany) to Linz (Austria)
June 19th
103km (593m vertical)
No real news on Neil. Amandene (the trip nurse), Theresa and Shanny (Tour Leaders) visited him in the hospital this morning. Apparently he had been sedated to control is pain, so he was not conscious. He made it through the night, which was supposed to be the most risky time, so hopefully he is going to be ok. They left him a camp chair that we had all signed. I think that one of his relatives is coming over to be with him and take him home.
Beautiful ride today alone the Danube Cyclepath. This is the touristy part of the path, since it is so scenic. Thankfully it is still early in the season, so the path was not busy. Leaving Passau, we entered Austria. Again the border was nothing more than a stone marker in the ground.
As soon as we entered Austria, the sun came out and it was hot. The first really hot sunny day of the trip. The scenery was similar to previous days, but on a larger scale: the river was wider, the tree-covered mountains on either side were taller, and the cyclepath was directly beside the river for most of the day.
Nicole's wheel had been making strange noises for a few days, so she traded it for Shanny's (Tour Leader) at the lunch stop. Olivier (trip mechanic) took apart the hub and found that there were several broken ball bearings and some rust. She'll have to get a new wheel tomorrow.
Small campsite tonight, so the tents are pretty close together. There's free wi-fi though, and a power outlet for my laptop, so I'm happy. They've put up a sign warning us about Austrian ticks, and I've been feeling a bit itchy ever since.
103km (593m vertical)
No real news on Neil. Amandene (the trip nurse), Theresa and Shanny (Tour Leaders) visited him in the hospital this morning. Apparently he had been sedated to control is pain, so he was not conscious. He made it through the night, which was supposed to be the most risky time, so hopefully he is going to be ok. They left him a camp chair that we had all signed. I think that one of his relatives is coming over to be with him and take him home.
Beautiful ride today alone the Danube Cyclepath. This is the touristy part of the path, since it is so scenic. Thankfully it is still early in the season, so the path was not busy. Leaving Passau, we entered Austria. Again the border was nothing more than a stone marker in the ground.
As soon as we entered Austria, the sun came out and it was hot. The first really hot sunny day of the trip. The scenery was similar to previous days, but on a larger scale: the river was wider, the tree-covered mountains on either side were taller, and the cyclepath was directly beside the river for most of the day.
Nicole's wheel had been making strange noises for a few days, so she traded it for Shanny's (Tour Leader) at the lunch stop. Olivier (trip mechanic) took apart the hub and found that there were several broken ball bearings and some rust. She'll have to get a new wheel tomorrow.
Small campsite tonight, so the tents are pretty close together. There's free wi-fi though, and a power outlet for my laptop, so I'm happy. They've put up a sign warning us about Austrian ticks, and I've been feeling a bit itchy ever since.
Straubing to Passau
June 18th
101km (557m vertical)
Niel, who at 81 is the oldest rider on the tour, was hit by a car today and taken to hospital by ambulance. First reports back are that he fractured his pelvis and required surgery to stop some internal bleeding. Not sure if the injuries are life threatening, but he will certainly be in hospital for some time and his tour is definitely over.
Neil had taken the truck for the first have of today's ride, and was cycling alone through a small town when he was hit. He was less than 20km from camp. We had stopped at a cafe for an Apfel-Schorle (carbonated apple juice) and slice of cheesecake. An overcast day had suddenly given way to bright sunshine, and we were set to enjoy our last few km into camp. As we rode through the town, we saw one of the tour vans with a few police officers at the side of the road. Jos, one of the other riders, said that he's just seen Neil taken away in an ambulance. Apparently a tractor was towing a large trailer, and its the trailer that knocked Neil off his bike and then ran him over. Niel was alert but in a lot of pain as he left.
I suppose we'll learn more in the coming days. I certainly hope that Neil recovers quickly. He was a very friendly, soft-spoken man with a great sense of humor and a constant smile. Fingers crossed.
Walked into Passau before dinner to see the town. There is a gigantic church with an ornate painted ceiling and the world's largest organ. The pipes were certainty big, but didn't seem that much bigger than other large organs I'd seen. The whole place was just beautiful though.
Its raining as I sit in my tent and write this on my laptop.
101km (557m vertical)
Niel, who at 81 is the oldest rider on the tour, was hit by a car today and taken to hospital by ambulance. First reports back are that he fractured his pelvis and required surgery to stop some internal bleeding. Not sure if the injuries are life threatening, but he will certainly be in hospital for some time and his tour is definitely over.
Neil had taken the truck for the first have of today's ride, and was cycling alone through a small town when he was hit. He was less than 20km from camp. We had stopped at a cafe for an Apfel-Schorle (carbonated apple juice) and slice of cheesecake. An overcast day had suddenly given way to bright sunshine, and we were set to enjoy our last few km into camp. As we rode through the town, we saw one of the tour vans with a few police officers at the side of the road. Jos, one of the other riders, said that he's just seen Neil taken away in an ambulance. Apparently a tractor was towing a large trailer, and its the trailer that knocked Neil off his bike and then ran him over. Niel was alert but in a lot of pain as he left.
I suppose we'll learn more in the coming days. I certainly hope that Neil recovers quickly. He was a very friendly, soft-spoken man with a great sense of humor and a constant smile. Fingers crossed.
Walked into Passau before dinner to see the town. There is a gigantic church with an ornate painted ceiling and the world's largest organ. The pipes were certainty big, but didn't seem that much bigger than other large organs I'd seen. The whole place was just beautiful though.
Its raining as I sit in my tent and write this on my laptop.
Regensburg to Straubing
June 17th
53km (414m vertical)
It threatened rain again for most of the day, but stayed dry. Today was a very short day, so we all slept in and left the hotel around 9:30am. Lunch was at the campsite, but we stopped for a hot chocolate and a cake around 11am.
Rode for most of the day in a larger group than normal, with about 10 people. Carl and Rita are South Africans riding a tandem bike on the trip, and I chatted to them for a while. Carl used to race and has finally convinced Rita to join him on a cycling vacation. They go pretty quickly on downhills and flats, with two people pedaling. A few times today we would pick up the tempo as we cruised through some flat fields.
The town of Straubing is very picturesque, and we had lots of time to wander around. Grabbed a beer and white-sausage at a local cafe and bought a few more little cycling accessories. Bike shops and outdoor stores are always very popular with the group, and we all made the rounds.
53km (414m vertical)
It threatened rain again for most of the day, but stayed dry. Today was a very short day, so we all slept in and left the hotel around 9:30am. Lunch was at the campsite, but we stopped for a hot chocolate and a cake around 11am.
Rode for most of the day in a larger group than normal, with about 10 people. Carl and Rita are South Africans riding a tandem bike on the trip, and I chatted to them for a while. Carl used to race and has finally convinced Rita to join him on a cycling vacation. They go pretty quickly on downhills and flats, with two people pedaling. A few times today we would pick up the tempo as we cruised through some flat fields.
The town of Straubing is very picturesque, and we had lots of time to wander around. Grabbed a beer and white-sausage at a local cafe and bought a few more little cycling accessories. Bike shops and outdoor stores are always very popular with the group, and we all made the rounds.
Rest Day in Regensburg
June 16th
0km
Regensburg is a lovely city. We stayed in the old part of town, in the middle of a cobblestone street maze. There was one huge cathedral and dozens of gelato shops.
I couriered my passport back to Toronto this morning. A tour company rep there will apply for my China visa later this week. I previously applied for the visa in Washington and New York, but was told I needed to apply in Canada. By the time I had applied in Canada, they were only issuing 3 month visas. Since the trip enters China in 3 months, I am now able to get my visa. Hopefully everything goes smoothly on this 4th attempt. With the Olympics this summer, visa issuing has really tightened up.
I separately mailed a box of clothes back to my parents that I didn't need for the trip. In hindsight, I spent lots of time outfitting my bike and choosing which cycling clothing to bring, but not nearly enough time thinking through my casual clothing. Sending home bulky cotton clothes and replacing them with lightweight synthetics gives me much more room in my bags and will make it easier to dry clothes on line.
Spent the rest of the day shopping and looking (unsuccessfully) for an internet cafe. The only one I found had blacked-out windows, a door with a buzzer, private computer rooms and waitresses to bring you drinks. The patrons didn't seem like tourists updating blogs, so I decided to go elsewhere.
Had a sushi dinner, which I figure is the last thing I'm likely to get in camp next week. It was also the only restaurant where I could get a seat, since Germany had a Eurocup match.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Kipfenberg to Regensburg
June 15th
106km (772m vertical)
Very cold night last night. I'm starting to worry that my lightweight sleeping bag won't be enough for this trip. It was really cold in the morning as well. I wore sandals to breakfast in the dew-soaked grass, and started the ride with frozen feet. It stayed cool all morning before a warm sun showed up in the afternoon.
Another day of bike paths through valleys. Trees on both sides with fields and a river in the middle. The path itself is a hodgepodge of different surfaces: country roads, narrow bike paths, cobblestone lanes through small towns, sidewalks, bridges, parking lots, etc. Its fun to cycle though towns looking for small signs to show you the turns.
Rest day tomorrow, so we're in a hotel tonight. Happy father's day dad!
106km (772m vertical)
Very cold night last night. I'm starting to worry that my lightweight sleeping bag won't be enough for this trip. It was really cold in the morning as well. I wore sandals to breakfast in the dew-soaked grass, and started the ride with frozen feet. It stayed cool all morning before a warm sun showed up in the afternoon.
Another day of bike paths through valleys. Trees on both sides with fields and a river in the middle. The path itself is a hodgepodge of different surfaces: country roads, narrow bike paths, cobblestone lanes through small towns, sidewalks, bridges, parking lots, etc. Its fun to cycle though towns looking for small signs to show you the turns.
Rest day tomorrow, so we're in a hotel tonight. Happy father's day dad!
Eggelstetten to Kipfenberg
June 14th
100km (856m vertical)
It got really cold last night. I had to put on a sweater and zip up all of my tent windows. Hope that my wonderfully compact 3-season tent will be up to the task.
Another nice day of cycling. Followed the cycle path in the morning, then a bit on some country roads, then back onto a different cycle path in the afternoon. As we cycled along the river, our path was blocked by a flock of sheep. They moved aside as we rode slowly through them, under the watchful eye of their Sheppard.
Rode up into a valley in the morning, and then stayed in the valley for the rest of the day. It was very nice. Tree covered valley walls with the occasional rocky cliff made a nice backdrop, as we stayed on the narrow cycle path.
At midday, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we found ourselves in the middle of a Renaissance fair. We stopped for a bratwurst sausage and some gelato while we listed to the traditional music, and watched costumed locals walking around. It was a nice change of pace.
Camp tonight is right beside the river, and I have a perfect view of the water outside my tent. Spent an hour cleaning my bike before dinner. Hope its not as cold tonight.
100km (856m vertical)
It got really cold last night. I had to put on a sweater and zip up all of my tent windows. Hope that my wonderfully compact 3-season tent will be up to the task.
Another nice day of cycling. Followed the cycle path in the morning, then a bit on some country roads, then back onto a different cycle path in the afternoon. As we cycled along the river, our path was blocked by a flock of sheep. They moved aside as we rode slowly through them, under the watchful eye of their Sheppard.
Rode up into a valley in the morning, and then stayed in the valley for the rest of the day. It was very nice. Tree covered valley walls with the occasional rocky cliff made a nice backdrop, as we stayed on the narrow cycle path.
At midday, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we found ourselves in the middle of a Renaissance fair. We stopped for a bratwurst sausage and some gelato while we listed to the traditional music, and watched costumed locals walking around. It was a nice change of pace.
Camp tonight is right beside the river, and I have a perfect view of the water outside my tent. Spent an hour cleaning my bike before dinner. Hope its not as cold tonight.
Ulm to Eggelstetten
June 14th
98km
Marilyn and Murry left the trip this morning. I was riding into Ulm with them two days ago when they miscommunicated and rode into each other where the cycle path merged with a road. Marilyn fell and broke her ankle, and that was the end of their cycling trip. They fly home to Canada today where she needs to get a metal screw put in her ankle. Doesn't sound like much fun to me. Hope that's the last medical problem for people on the trip.
Today's ride was much colder than the past days. I wore my jacket for most of it, and wished I didn't have all of my warmer clothes in my permanent bag. Although it was overcast, it didn't rain.
We followed the cycle path again for most of the day, although that didn't stop us from getting lost a few times. It must look funny for locals to see 20 cyclists fly by along a dead end street, only to ride back the other direction 5 minutes later. Scenery was nice, but nothing spectacular. Long stretches in the forest, some through fields, and some others along side the river.
A lot of the cycle path has been on loose gravel. I'm happy to have my 32mm tires on (versus my regular 23mm ones.
We left the cycle path at the end of the day. Instead of signs, the tour leaders marked the route with bright orange tape on trees to tell us when to turn.
Watched the Netherlands defeat France in a Eurocup match. Manon (who is Dutch, although lives in Australia) was very pleased.
98km
Marilyn and Murry left the trip this morning. I was riding into Ulm with them two days ago when they miscommunicated and rode into each other where the cycle path merged with a road. Marilyn fell and broke her ankle, and that was the end of their cycling trip. They fly home to Canada today where she needs to get a metal screw put in her ankle. Doesn't sound like much fun to me. Hope that's the last medical problem for people on the trip.
Today's ride was much colder than the past days. I wore my jacket for most of it, and wished I didn't have all of my warmer clothes in my permanent bag. Although it was overcast, it didn't rain.
We followed the cycle path again for most of the day, although that didn't stop us from getting lost a few times. It must look funny for locals to see 20 cyclists fly by along a dead end street, only to ride back the other direction 5 minutes later. Scenery was nice, but nothing spectacular. Long stretches in the forest, some through fields, and some others along side the river.
A lot of the cycle path has been on loose gravel. I'm happy to have my 32mm tires on (versus my regular 23mm ones.
We left the cycle path at the end of the day. Instead of signs, the tour leaders marked the route with bright orange tape on trees to tell us when to turn.
Watched the Netherlands defeat France in a Eurocup match. Manon (who is Dutch, although lives in Australia) was very pleased.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Rest Day in Ulm
June 12th
0km
Lots of little errands on the rest day today: washed everything at a laundrymat, found this internet cafe, and bought a few things in local shops. Lots of walking around.
I`ve really been enjoying the last few days of cycling. Good roads, interesting scenery and sunshine make me look forward to each day in the saddle.
0km
Lots of little errands on the rest day today: washed everything at a laundrymat, found this internet cafe, and bought a few things in local shops. Lots of walking around.
I`ve really been enjoying the last few days of cycling. Good roads, interesting scenery and sunshine make me look forward to each day in the saddle.
Photos from Germany
Fields on the way to Freiburg.
Me at the top of the 9km climb on the way to Donaueschingen.
Graeme, Nicole, Manon, Me and Al.
Scenic valley along the Danube Cycleway.
Danube Cycleway sign.
Sigmaringen to Ulm
June 11th
111 km (846m vertical)
Another lovely day of riding. We followed the Danube Cycle Path all day, looking for little signs on the road to know where to turn. Much more fun then staring at a map all the time. The path had a few steep climbs and fun descents. There were a few long straight stretches of narrow path cutting through large fields. We had a nice tailwind, and I cruised off on my own to enjoy the speed and quiet. Otherwise, I rode most of the day with Al and the Auzzies.
No lunch stop today since we were on small bike paths for most of the ride. Instead, we packed sandwiches at breakfast. My three sandwiches were a real mess by the time I tried to eat them. Should have spent more time packing them up in paper towels and plastic bags.
Manon (one of the Auzzies) got lost for a few km today. She was in the wrong gear at the bottom of a hill, and got left behind. By the time I went back for her, she was gone. There was another rider with her, and we met up with both of them a few km down the road. They had missed the bike path and rode on the main throughway instead.
Great dinner at a local restaurant in town. I had the steak with sauerkraut and some sort of noodle. Watched some Eurocup football and had a few drinks (in anticipation of tomorrow's rest day). Got a bit lost trying to find the hotel, but we all made it back eventually.
111 km (846m vertical)
Another lovely day of riding. We followed the Danube Cycle Path all day, looking for little signs on the road to know where to turn. Much more fun then staring at a map all the time. The path had a few steep climbs and fun descents. There were a few long straight stretches of narrow path cutting through large fields. We had a nice tailwind, and I cruised off on my own to enjoy the speed and quiet. Otherwise, I rode most of the day with Al and the Auzzies.
No lunch stop today since we were on small bike paths for most of the ride. Instead, we packed sandwiches at breakfast. My three sandwiches were a real mess by the time I tried to eat them. Should have spent more time packing them up in paper towels and plastic bags.
Manon (one of the Auzzies) got lost for a few km today. She was in the wrong gear at the bottom of a hill, and got left behind. By the time I went back for her, she was gone. There was another rider with her, and we met up with both of them a few km down the road. They had missed the bike path and rode on the main throughway instead.
Great dinner at a local restaurant in town. I had the steak with sauerkraut and some sort of noodle. Watched some Eurocup football and had a few drinks (in anticipation of tomorrow's rest day). Got a bit lost trying to find the hotel, but we all made it back eventually.
Donaueschingen to Sigmaringen
June 10th
88km (686m vertical)
Beautiful day of cycling. Absolutely lovely. Weather was sunny but not overly warm and we spent the day cycling along the Danube cycle path. It didn't follow the river all of the time, but it did offer a new vista around every corner. The thin cycling path was about a single lane wide, and was packed gravel for long stretches, but it took us winding through fields and forests, alongside the Danube river and through various rocky valleys. The day's route instructions just said “follow the path”.
I rode with Al and the Auzzies all day. We made good time (second group into lunch) and stopped regularly for photos. Al and I would race up any hills we came to. With panniers off, some more km under his belt, and an audience, Al has sped up a lot.
Sometime after lunch, we stopped for a cold drink and an ice cream at a little cafe along the route. It was in the middle of no where, and clearly catered only to cyclists on our path.
After arriving in camp, we went to a local supermarket and bought some wine, cheese and chocolate for a pre-dinner snack. Lovely. After dinner, we walked around the town for a bit before heading to bed. There's thunder threatening rain as I write. Hope we stay dry tomorrow.
88km (686m vertical)
Beautiful day of cycling. Absolutely lovely. Weather was sunny but not overly warm and we spent the day cycling along the Danube cycle path. It didn't follow the river all of the time, but it did offer a new vista around every corner. The thin cycling path was about a single lane wide, and was packed gravel for long stretches, but it took us winding through fields and forests, alongside the Danube river and through various rocky valleys. The day's route instructions just said “follow the path”.
I rode with Al and the Auzzies all day. We made good time (second group into lunch) and stopped regularly for photos. Al and I would race up any hills we came to. With panniers off, some more km under his belt, and an audience, Al has sped up a lot.
Sometime after lunch, we stopped for a cold drink and an ice cream at a little cafe along the route. It was in the middle of no where, and clearly catered only to cyclists on our path.
After arriving in camp, we went to a local supermarket and bought some wine, cheese and chocolate for a pre-dinner snack. Lovely. After dinner, we walked around the town for a bit before heading to bed. There's thunder threatening rain as I write. Hope we stay dry tomorrow.
Freiburg to Donaueschingen
June 9th
70km (1,135m vertical)
Lovely sunny day today. Nicest weather we've had all trip. The route out of Freiburg was a bit complicated, so I elected to follow a large pack of riders for the first 15km or so. It took us an entire hour to cover the distance, so I was ready to pick up the pace a little when we got to the country.
There was 9km climb that rose by 800m or so, and I figured this would be a good place to break from the pack. The first 4km were not steep, so I sprinted out of the saddle – thinking that this was representative of the whole climb. l was cycling up ahead of me, and I wanted to catch him on the climb. I did, just as the climb got much steeper for the last 5km. By the end I was in my granny gear (the easiest one) and huffing and puffing like mad. I was the first to the top of the hill though, and the first to the lunch truck on the other side.
Al was annoyed that I hadn't stopped to point out the directions for him today. I told him that those days were over. He has the same cue sheet that I do, and needs to start navigating for himself. Besides, the turnoff was in the middle of a downhill and I was coasting along at 50km/h. I didn't want to slam on the brakes just to point out the turn to Al.
Lunch was a smoked salmon sandwich and a bunch of fruit. After eating, it was an easy 20km to the campsite. I arrived first (at 12:30) and secured a good tent location and a nice hot shower before the others started arriving. Not sure how I'll kill the 6 hours before dinner. Maybe I can start charging people to set up their tents.
70km (1,135m vertical)
Lovely sunny day today. Nicest weather we've had all trip. The route out of Freiburg was a bit complicated, so I elected to follow a large pack of riders for the first 15km or so. It took us an entire hour to cover the distance, so I was ready to pick up the pace a little when we got to the country.
There was 9km climb that rose by 800m or so, and I figured this would be a good place to break from the pack. The first 4km were not steep, so I sprinted out of the saddle – thinking that this was representative of the whole climb. l was cycling up ahead of me, and I wanted to catch him on the climb. I did, just as the climb got much steeper for the last 5km. By the end I was in my granny gear (the easiest one) and huffing and puffing like mad. I was the first to the top of the hill though, and the first to the lunch truck on the other side.
Al was annoyed that I hadn't stopped to point out the directions for him today. I told him that those days were over. He has the same cue sheet that I do, and needs to start navigating for himself. Besides, the turnoff was in the middle of a downhill and I was coasting along at 50km/h. I didn't want to slam on the brakes just to point out the turn to Al.
Lunch was a smoked salmon sandwich and a bunch of fruit. After eating, it was an easy 20km to the campsite. I arrived first (at 12:30) and secured a good tent location and a nice hot shower before the others started arriving. Not sure how I'll kill the 6 hours before dinner. Maybe I can start charging people to set up their tents.
Rest Day in Freiburg
June 8th
0km
First rest day with the group. Slept for 11.5 hours last night – must be the jetlag...and the lack of sleep over graduation week.
Low key day. Most people spent the morning cleaning their bikes. I cleaned for an hour, repacked my bags, and then read my book. (My book right now is Nate's book “One bullet away”). Wandered into town for lunch with the Auzzie crew. Sat in the hot sun beside a huge cathedral. Read my book some more and then slept for 2 hours in the afternoon (again, jetlag related...Nate's book is very interesting.) There was a thunderstorm in the afternoon, so we abandoned our plan to watch the Germany v. Poland soccer match at the outdoor pub. Instead, dinner was at a little Italian place with the Auzzies.
0km
First rest day with the group. Slept for 11.5 hours last night – must be the jetlag...and the lack of sleep over graduation week.
Low key day. Most people spent the morning cleaning their bikes. I cleaned for an hour, repacked my bags, and then read my book. (My book right now is Nate's book “One bullet away”). Wandered into town for lunch with the Auzzie crew. Sat in the hot sun beside a huge cathedral. Read my book some more and then slept for 2 hours in the afternoon (again, jetlag related...Nate's book is very interesting.) There was a thunderstorm in the afternoon, so we abandoned our plan to watch the Germany v. Poland soccer match at the outdoor pub. Instead, dinner was at a little Italian place with the Auzzies.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Munster (France) to Freiburg (Germany)
June 7th
70km (433m vertical)
First day of cycling with the group. It rained last night but stopped as we got up, although it was overcast all day. I got up at 6:20am, which was about average for the group. Breakfast was porridge at 7:15am and we started cycling around 7:45am.
My “day bag” was really full this morning. I should have packed better...or just less. Some of the stuff might fit in my “permanent bag”, which we can only access on rest days. Since tomorrow is a rest day, I can play around with it tonight.
After several long wet days, everyone else was happy for a dry short ride today and their first hotel stay since Paris. I rode with Al and the only other people under 40 – Nicole, Manon and Graham. They are three friends from Australia that are also doing the full trip to Beijing. Very friendly and chatty. Good that we all get along, because we'll see a lot of each other over the next 6 months.
The ride itself was nothing special. The roads were pretty busy and the weather was pretty dull. We rode across the Rhine and into Germany with little fanfare. No border crossing. No passport check. Only one small, very plain looking sign.
I noticed a slow leak in one of my tires, so I changed the tube at the side of the road. My first flat in several years, if you can believe it. Small piece of glass in the tire. Then Manon got a flat and broke the valve on her new tube, so she had to replace the tube twice. Three tube changes in 70km seemed a bit excessive.
Our hotel tonight is nice. Everyone has left their bikes in the parking garage, and set up their tents there too to dry. After showers we'll head into town for dinner.
70km (433m vertical)
First day of cycling with the group. It rained last night but stopped as we got up, although it was overcast all day. I got up at 6:20am, which was about average for the group. Breakfast was porridge at 7:15am and we started cycling around 7:45am.
My “day bag” was really full this morning. I should have packed better...or just less. Some of the stuff might fit in my “permanent bag”, which we can only access on rest days. Since tomorrow is a rest day, I can play around with it tonight.
After several long wet days, everyone else was happy for a dry short ride today and their first hotel stay since Paris. I rode with Al and the only other people under 40 – Nicole, Manon and Graham. They are three friends from Australia that are also doing the full trip to Beijing. Very friendly and chatty. Good that we all get along, because we'll see a lot of each other over the next 6 months.
The ride itself was nothing special. The roads were pretty busy and the weather was pretty dull. We rode across the Rhine and into Germany with little fanfare. No border crossing. No passport check. Only one small, very plain looking sign.
I noticed a slow leak in one of my tires, so I changed the tube at the side of the road. My first flat in several years, if you can believe it. Small piece of glass in the tire. Then Manon got a flat and broke the valve on her new tube, so she had to replace the tube twice. Three tube changes in 70km seemed a bit excessive.
Our hotel tonight is nice. Everyone has left their bikes in the parking garage, and set up their tents there too to dry. After showers we'll head into town for dinner.
Back to Munster
June 6th
0km
Today started with a graduation ceremony in and ended in a campsite in Munster France. I woke up at 6am EST on June 5th, and I'm about to go to bed now at 3pm EST on June 6th.
Graduation week back at HBS was fun. Great to see friends on last time before I left for 6 months. Definitely bittersweet to say goodbye. My parents came for the ceremony, brought me some last minute trip supplies and carried all of my remaining Boston possessions back to Niagara Falls. Very much appreciated mom & dad!
No travel problems this time. Al and I took a cab to Logan airport in Boston, flew to Paris (via Dublin) and then took a series of 3 trains to get back to Munster...where we had finished cycling to last week. We met the group, retrieved our bikes and bags, and set up tents for the first time.
We spent the afternoon chatting with the other cyclists. Apparently they have had 5 days of rain, and people seemed a big grumpy about that. Its raining steadily still. Hope it dries up by tomorrow.
0km
Today started with a graduation ceremony in and ended in a campsite in Munster France. I woke up at 6am EST on June 5th, and I'm about to go to bed now at 3pm EST on June 6th.
Graduation week back at HBS was fun. Great to see friends on last time before I left for 6 months. Definitely bittersweet to say goodbye. My parents came for the ceremony, brought me some last minute trip supplies and carried all of my remaining Boston possessions back to Niagara Falls. Very much appreciated mom & dad!
No travel problems this time. Al and I took a cab to Logan airport in Boston, flew to Paris (via Dublin) and then took a series of 3 trains to get back to Munster...where we had finished cycling to last week. We met the group, retrieved our bikes and bags, and set up tents for the first time.
We spent the afternoon chatting with the other cyclists. Apparently they have had 5 days of rain, and people seemed a big grumpy about that. Its raining steadily still. Hope it dries up by tomorrow.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
More Photos (from Al)
Cycling along the Seine in Paris.
Lovely green fields on a sunny day.
A shot of my good side. My (only) jearsy is still looking white at this point.
Lunch break with a baguette.
Near the top of Col de la Schlucht, looking down into Munster (where we will return to meet the rest of the group this Friday).
Monday, June 2, 2008
Photos (2 of 2)
Al cycling along some of the wonderful French country roads.
Champaign grapes.
A view from near the top of Col de la Schlucht.Photos (1 of 2)
Here are some pics from the trip across France:
Dipping my wheel in the Atlantic (English Channel) at Le Havre.
Al and I arriving in Paris.
Rest day in old town Troyes.
Dipping my wheel in the Atlantic (English Channel) at Le Havre.
Al and I arriving in Paris.
Rest day in old town Troyes.
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