Birthday

Gabala to Shamakhi
August 18th
95km (1,746m vertical)

Today, I shared a birthday with Clive and Knut. We each got balloons and streamers at dinner, a cake, and a copy of Paul's Silk Route book...which I'm looking forward to reading. Around the table, “Happy Birthday” was sung in 10 different languages by the other riders. (English, French, Dutch, Azeri, Vietnamese, Slovakian, Romanian, Danish, Africans, and German.)

My birthday got off to a bad start with the return of stomach troubles at 1am. Very discouraging, since I had felt fine for the past few days. There are at least 7 riders with similar stomach issues right now...including Joan, the trip doctor. At least I'm not alone...although the Immodium supplies are getting low.

Although short, the day was tough with hot sun and two steep climbs as we left the Caucasus mountains. Riding up dusty 12% grade switchbacks in 105F is not fun when you're sick. The tar on the road was almost liquid, and sizzled as we rode over it.

Azeri cuisine, though not exotic, is not really comfort food for my sore stomach. Every meal has cucumber and tomato slices, thick pita bread, hard boiled eggs, soft cheese and honey. Dinner also comes with soup and meat...its the breakfast and lunch that give me trouble. Finding cold drinks on the road is also a challenge – especially still water. All the bottled water here is carbonated. (The exact opposite of Turkey, where we couldn't find any carbonated water.)

Although its an oil country, there are almost as many flocks of sheep, goat and cattle marching along the roads as cars. 3 of 4 cars are small, boxy Ladas, and half the trucks spew out thick black smoke from their exhaust. On the plus side, things are really inexpensive. 1L of water, 1L of Sprite, a Twix bar and some candy came to $2.

Knut, me and Clive...the three birthday boys:

Caucasus mountains and a dry river bed:

Nicole eating lunch in the shade:

View from the top of the first big climb:

A look at the second big climb from the top of the first one. Picture looks washed out because it was so bright and hot!