CHINA

Camp near Erkec-Tam (Kyrgyzstan) to Ulugqat (China)
September 18th
67km (799m vertical)

Six months ago, my first application for a Chinese visa was rejected. Today, I successfully entered the country.

The ride was my favorite of the trip so far. Flying around the sharp corners on the steep descents was pure joy. Boy did I miss smooth pavement! Days like this are why I come on trips like this. The scenery was just breathtaking and there were wild horses and two-humped camels wandering beside our quiet road. I took tons of photos but I doubt that they will do it justice. The scale of the landscape has to be experienced to be appreciated.

Another very cold night last night, which stopped me from sleeping well. I put on everything warm I had with me and it still couldn't keep me quite warm enough – and I usually sleep really well in the cold. It was 35F when we started cycling, and I imagne that it got a bit cooler than that during the night. Probably right around freezing.

The border was a hassle, but that was expected. It took us 2.5 hours just to leave Kyrgyzstan, including a delay due to a power failure that shut down their computer system. We arrived at the first Chinese checkpoint at 11:30am...just in time for their 2.5 hour lunch break! So we sat and waited. It was another hour and a half of processing before we were free. One of the young border officers had a camera, and kept randomly taking photos of us while we waited. Very rude.

With our late start, it was almost dark when we arrived in “camp”. Instead of camping in a field and having Miles cook, we are camping in a small town and ate at a local “restauraunt". It had no electricity, but lots of personality as we dined by candight. The tiny cooking area gave plenty of heat as we enjoyed home made dumplings and noodles.

Our tents are literally right in front of the tiny restaurant, on a small patch of dirt. There were local kids everywhere when we arrived, and they seem to have been replaced by wandering cows and barking dogs now that it is dark.

Last of the Kyrgy climbs, heading towards the Chinese border:

I had never seen wild, two-humped camels before:

The rugged landscape at dust was amazing:

More great views of Chinese mountains:

Tonight's camp site: